Debt Payoff Calculator
Plug in your debts. Choose snowball or avalanche. See exactly when you'll be debt-free and how much interest each method saves — compared side by side.
5 yr 4 mo
using the avalanche method, with $200 extra/mo
You'll pay $10,093 in interest along the way — $62,093 total out of pocket.
- 01Credit card 11 yr 5 mo
- 02Credit card 21 yr 10 mo
- 03Auto loan5 yr 1 mo
- 04Student loans5 yr 4 mo
- Months to debt-free
- 64
- Total interest
- $10K
- Total paid
- $62K
- Monthly pool
- $980minimums + extra
Snowball vs avalanche
There are two well-known debt-payoff strategies, and they answer the same question — "which debt should I attack first?" — in different ways.
- Avalanche: pay the highest-APR debt first. Mathematically optimal — you pay the least total interest. The only thing it doesn't optimize for is your motivation while doing it.
- Snowball: pay the smallest-balance debt first. You'll see the first debt disappear sooner, which is psychologically powerful — but you'll usually pay slightly more interest along the way.
Both methods use the same monthly cash budget. The mechanics are identical: pay all minimums, then throw any extra at one "focus" debt. The only difference is how you pick the focus.
How the simulation works
The calculator runs a month-by-month simulation:
- Accrue interest. Each debt's balance grows by APR ÷ 12 each month.
- Pay minimums. Every active debt gets its minimum payment.
- Throw extra at focus. Whatever's left of your monthly pool (minimums + extra payment) goes entirely to the chosen focus debt.
- Roll over. When a debt is paid off, its minimum doesn't disappear — it joins the extra-payment pool, attacking the next focus debt. This is the "snowball effect," and it works under either method.
- Repeat until balances are zero (or 50 years pass — the calculator gives up at that point).
The model assumes APRs and minimum payments stay constant. Real credit-card minimums adjust as balances drop; we ignore that for simplicity.
The right method isn't the one that's mathematically optimal. It's the one you'll actually stick to.
Which method should you pick?
Honest answer: pick whichever you'll actually finish. The difference between methods is usually 5–15% of total interest and a few months — meaningful, but not life-changing. The difference between "stuck with it for 30 months" and "gave up after six" is enormous.
Use the calculator above to see your specific numbers, then:
- Pick avalanche if you respond well to math and the savings are large enough to motivate you.
- Pick snowball if you've struggled to maintain debt-payoff discipline before, or if your smallest debt is small enough that clearing it feels like a real milestone (a $500 medical bill, an $800 store card).
- Mix the two: pay your smallest debt off first as a quick win, then switch to avalanche on the remaining ones.
How to accelerate payoff
- Lower the APR before lowering the balance. A 22% credit card balance-transferred to 0% for 18 months is the fastest single move you can make. The math on the calculator above changes dramatically when you swap a 22% APR for 6%.
- Consolidate strategically. A personal loan at 8% replacing 22% credit-card debt is a winning trade only if you don't run the cards back up. The data suggests most people do, so consolidation works only with a hard rule against new card balances.
- Direct extras to focus, not all debts. The biggest mistake people make is paying a little extra on every debt. Send the entire extra to one focus debt — the snowball effect is what crushes the timeline.
- Find $50–200/mo extra. Cancel a streaming service, eat out one fewer time, take a side gig for a quarter. The calculator shows: even $100/mo extra usually shaves 6–18 months off a typical debt load.
- Don't drop the emergency fund to zero. Without a small cushion, the next car repair becomes credit card debt — undoing months of progress. Keep one month of expenses aside, then attack debt.
What this calculator doesn't model
- Variable minimum payments. Real credit-card minimums are roughly 1–2% of balance. As you pay down, the minimum drops, which means the calculator slightly underestimates how long things take if you only pay minimums. Set the minimum to a value that's stable for your expected payoff path.
- APR changes. Promotional rates expire, variable rates move with the Fed. The model assumes APRs stay constant.
- New debt during payoff. If you keep using a credit card while paying it off, this model isn't accurate. Stop using the card.
- Fees and prepayment penalties. Some loans charge early-payoff penalties; some cards charge annual fees. None of those are in the model.
- Tax effects. Mortgage interest may be deductible, student-loan interest sometimes is. The model uses pre-tax numbers — fine for most decisions, slightly off for very large balances.
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between snowball and avalanche? +
Which method actually pays off debt faster? +
What's the 'monthly pool'? +
Should I save first or pay off debt first? +
Should I pay extra principal on my mortgage? +
What about consolidation or balance transfer? +
Why does the calculator say 'math doesn't close'? +
Is this financial advice? +
Going deeper
- How to Calculate Your FIRE Number — clearing debt is the fastest way to lower the FIRE number. Cutting $300/mo of debt service is $90k of FIRE number at 4%.
Related calculators
- Savings Rate — once debt is gone, the same monthly pool becomes investment.
- Net Worth — debts are the negative side of the ledger.
- Coast FIRE — when can you stop saving?
MoneyMath is an educational tool. The numbers above depend entirely on assumptions you provide and are not financial advice.